The ‘real’ food critics? Australian chefs on the toughest restaurant reviewers of all

It’s an honour to be well reviewed by a professional. But for these restaurateurs and chefs, the ultimate verdict comes from the harshest diners: migrant eldersGet our weekend culture and lifestyle emailMy mother, in all the decades we’ve dined out, has never liked a single restaurant I’ve taken her – even though I’ve written about food for nearly 20 years. Then we went to Yan, an Asian smokehouse in Sydney. Instead of dropping typical complaints about price (too expensive) or the cooking quality (inferior), she gave something rare and unexpected: hard-won Asian-parent praise. For this alone, I consider it an award-winning restaurant.In Australia, dining guides and restaurant awards have become more culturally diverse over time, after criticism in recent years that Euro-style, fine-dining establishments with designer fit-outs, postcard views and internationally recognised chefs receive the highest accolades, while non-western cuisines are relegated to the “cheap eats” sections. Continue reading...

Nov 13, 2024 - 01:30
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It’s an honour to be well reviewed by a professional. But for these restaurateurs and chefs, the ultimate verdict comes from the harshest diners: migrant elders

My mother, in all the decades we’ve dined out, has never liked a single restaurant I’ve taken her – even though I’ve written about food for nearly 20 years. Then we went to Yan, an Asian smokehouse in Sydney. Instead of dropping typical complaints about price (too expensive) or the cooking quality (inferior), she gave something rare and unexpected: hard-won Asian-parent praise. For this alone, I consider it an award-winning restaurant.

In Australia, dining guides and restaurant awards have become more culturally diverse over time, after criticism in recent years that Euro-style, fine-dining establishments with designer fit-outs, postcard views and internationally recognised chefs receive the highest accolades, while non-western cuisines are relegated to the “cheap eats” sections. Continue reading...

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